Cotton is soft and breathable, and it is the material that we use the most for our products. It is a natural fibre that is renewable and biodegradable, but growing cotton also requires a lot of water, pesticides and fertilisers. Since cotton is such a big share of our materials, we can have major impact by choosing alternatives that are better for the people and the environment.
Growing cotton requires a lot of water and artificial irrigation. Cotton is often grown in countries that lack enough clean water, so even though the cotton plants get the water they need, the people living there may not. And in order for the cotton to grow properly, fertilisers and pesticides are often used. When the fertilisers and pesticides consist of artificial chemicals, it impacts the biodiversity and over time it empties the soil of its natural nutrients and organisms that are vital for crops to grow. It also impacts the soil’s ability to store CO2, which has major consequences for the climate. In addition, several of the chemicals used are toxic and risk contaminating the surrounding environment and water sources.
In other words, when cotton is grown the conventional way, it requires a lot of resources and has a negative impact on both people and the environment. And once the cotton is harvested, turning it into the textile material we all have in our closets also requires a lot of water and chemicals.
This is why it is important for us at Lindex to always increase the share of cotton that is better for people and the environment than conventionally grown cotton, such as organic cotton and ‘cotton in conversion’. And above all, we work to increase the share of recycled cotton which saves a lot of natural resources and reduces our impact significantly by using what has already been produced.
Instead of growing new cotton, we can save a lot of natural resources by reusing the cotton that has already been produced. Recycled cotton is leftovers from production or used textiles that get a new life by being torn apart, spun and knitted or woven into new material.
Recycled cotton has a shorter fibre length than newly produced cotton, which impacts the quality. Since we want our garments to last and be used for a long time, we often mix recycled cotton with other cotton. But even though the recycled cotton is only a small share in each garment, using as much as possible makes a major difference and significantly reduces the impact of our entire assortment.
Organic cotton is grown using less water and energy compared to conventional cotton. It is grown without artificial fertilisers, chemical pesticides or genetically modified cotton seeds. Growing organic cotton contributes to healthy ecosystems, promotes biodiversity and improves the soil so crops can continue to grow and CO2 can be stored, which is good for the climate. The health of cotton farmers and their families improves since they are not exposed to toxic chemicals.
Only about 1 per cent of the cotton production in the world is organic and it takes time for a cotton farmer to convert their fields from conventional to organic cotton. To increase the access to organic cotton, we support farmers who are in transition to organic cotton by also using ‘cotton in conversion’.
A GOTS certified garment is made from organic cotton and certifies all the steps after the cotton has been produced. GOTS includes both social and environmental requirements for all parts of the production process such as the spinning of yarn, weaving of fabrics, colour, prints and details.
Converting fields from growing conventional to organic cotton, requires a three-year transition period for the cotton farmers. Even when the cotton is grown with fully organic methods, the soil takes time to recover from growing conventional cotton. Making this transition is a risk for the cotton farmers, who cannot sell their cotton at the same price as organic cotton until it has fully transitioned.
‘Cotton in conversion’ comes from cotton farmers who are in this transition to organic cotton. By buying cotton in conversion, we can be part of giving the farmers the security they need and support the transition of more cotton from conventional to organic.
As part of our goal that 100 per cent of our materials will be recycled or sustainably sourced by 2025, we also have a goal that our cotton will be fully traceable by the same time. The global cotton supply chain is complex and still has a long way to go in terms of transparency. But while transparency is a challenge, it is also key in making progress.
We need to increase the transparency in the global supply chain, but we also believe in sourcing cotton closer to the actual cotton fields. Our ‘Women in cotton’ programme with CottonConnect is one example of this. Alongside empowering the female cotton farmers who are in conversion to organic cotton, the programme also created a direct link between the farmer community and our business. This way, we have been able to push the cotton from the female cotton farmers in the programme upstream in our supply chain into specific products.
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